Thursday, 2025, May 8
Maurice picks me up early, along with André and Janet, and after a smooth flight, we land in Riga at 1 p.m. local time. We check in at the Benjamin House, a hotel with old grandeur and beautiful rooms. We drive through the adjacent Wöhrmann Garden Park towards the old town. There are many old buildings, such as the Ramera Tornis, with the coats of arms of Latvian cities on its facade. Across the river, we see the Svetas Trijadibas Pardaugavas Pareizticigo Basilica and the modern National Library. Back into the city center for traditional food at O’Paps Pub.
Patrick has also joined us, and the next day we explore the city. We browse the flower stalls and food stalls near and in the old Zeplin Halls. We browse a flea market with piles of old stuff, medals, pins, knives, weapons, and other questionable items from bygone eras. At the Soviet-style Latvian Academy of Sciences, we climb to the rooftop terrace and enjoy a beautiful view of the city. We pass the numerous churches and, as we walk past the cemetery that’s quite crowded. Lots of flowers at the monument to the fallen soldier. May 9th, something to do with the Soviet Union. For lunch, we sample the excellent Georgian cuisine. Janet and I visit the House of the Black Heads, the cathedral, and the war museum, after which we meet the gentlemen on the terrace with a thick cigar and a drink. We dine in the Art Nouveau embassy district.
On Saturday, we admired the Art Nouveau buildings for which Riga is famous. Magnificent. At Milda’s, we had lunch with soup in bread and other Latvian dishes. Fantastic. The two of us take a boat tour of Riga, and afterward, I join the men in the smokehouse, The Oak Lounge, where they were already enjoying cigars and whiskey. Late in the afternoon, we relax at the Skyline bar, the place for locals to see and be seen, while tourists could see beautiful Riga from the 26th floor. The Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs is completely full, but there is just enough space near the stage, where three women enthusiastically sing and play.
We want to see more of the country, so we rent a car and head out of the city into the forested mountains. At Sigulda Viduslaiku Pils, we visit the castle and then head into nature. The trail roughly follow the river, spotting birds of prey, a black stork, and beaver dams along the way. Back to the castle and on to Jauna Pils. Magnificent fireplace, beautiful wooden walls, and the requisite sad paintings. We take a Bolt to Turaida Castle. Magnificent castle and lovely views of the surrounding area. Here André and Janet pick us up again.
On Monday, we’re going to the coast where the Daugava River flows into the sea. A lovely walk on the beach. Off the coast lies a sunken boat, its nose still above the water. The cormorants are making grateful use of it. Seals have washed up on the beach, and on the pier, people are fishing for herring. There are plenty of them, judging by the amount they catch. We walk back through the forest and pass a number of bunkers dating from 1875 to 1915. Some bunkers are still open to visitors, and if we can, we’ll take a look inside. One bunker also houses frogs, some salamanders, and a grass snake. At the last bunker, we order a Bolt, which picks us up on the dirt road in the forest. Back in town, we stop by the hotel, then find a terrace in town, especially in the sun. Maurice is also coming here, and it’s wonderful in the sun. In the background, a large screen is playing ice hockey. That’s not to be missed here. Tonight, we’re going to a lovely restaurant, Chef’s Corner. This is what André and Janet gave us as a thank you and because it’s their second wedding anniversary. Delicious food, great wine. Enjoyed it! It’s already our last day, and we’re going back tomorrow.
