Turkey 2025
Sunday, October 26, 2025
Early this evening I arrive at my hotel in Kusadasi. I head straight into town, and just around the corner, a group of wild boars are rooting around in a small park. Strange. They’re not on the menu, but the fish is excellent.
The next few days, I explore the old town. A modern shopping center on the boulevard with a green roof, through which a meandering walkway runs. Further on, the old Kervansaray Kusadasi with a beautiful courtyard, I pass the terminal with four cruise ships —a bit much, after all— and some fishing boats on the way to Kusadasi Castle. Beautiful views, and in the tower, an exhibition with a fin whale skeleton and ancient artifacts. The old town is one big bazaar, and late in the afternoon, it’s time for a dip in the pool. Excellent food and relaxation.
Starting Wednesday, I’ll be hitting the road with my rental car. Of course, Ephesus is a must. Fortunately, the site is large, and the number of cruise ship buses is limited. Unfortunately, the Great Theatre is under renovation and cannot be visited, but it looks still impressive. Across the Commercial Market, through the Gate of Mazeus and Mithridates, to the Library of Celsus with its magnificent facade. Further up the hill and into the city, past the Temple of Hadrian, the mosaic floor of Alytarch’s Stoa, and the Fountain of Trajan to the Odeon. On the way back, I’ll visit the Terrace Houses with their beautiful mosaic floors and murals. At the Ephesus Museum in Selcuk, I admire the statues, sculptures, and artifacts found in the ancient city and also take in the aqueduct and the fortress. The House of the Virgin Mary seems to belong in the list, and when I manage to snag one of the last parking spots, I discover 25 Norwegian buses are queuing to take a look inside this rather small house. Sniff. Back on the hotel balcony, loud music is coming from the boulevard. Curious, I go to check it out, and it turns out to be Republic Day. Thousands of happy Turks, waving flags, greet the procession of scooters, bands, and walkers. It’s a fun experience.
Thursday, more ancient sites from the Greek and Roman periods, the first being Magnesia. The foundations of the first Temple of Artemis, columns, an architrave, and many marble fragments are still being excavated, and around the Temple of Zeus, a row of crisscrossing columns can be seen that extends further into the excavated dirt wall. Just outside the museum are the Theatron, which is accessible on foot and located behind the fig orchard, and the Stadium. Luckily, a small tour bus is ahead of me, and they know you have to ring the doorbell at the gate to be allowed in. The Stadium is impressively large, over 180 meters long, and largely equipped with stands for 30,000 people. A few ornaments remain here and there. Magnificent. Further towards the coast lies Priene, with another theater, the Temple of Athena, a vast agora, and stunning views over the valley. A quick visit to the mountain village of Doganbey, along the coast, and the closed Kadi Kalesi.
It’s already the last day, and I’m using it to go to Pumakkale. The city of Hierapolis is built against the limestone terraces. The white mountainside with its light blue pools sparkles in the sun. The ancient city adjoining it is definitely worth a visit. The Pluto Gate, the Roman Theatre, and the sculpture museum are a must. The vast area also offers many Roman and Byzantine remains and sarcophagi clinging to the mountainside. Less than 15 minutes away lies Laodicea. Through the gate, along the marble road between the rows of columns, I reach Temple A and the mosaic floors of the church. Two theatres, one of which is under restoration, and a plastered and painted wall. More rows of columns, temples, an agora, and at the rear of the site, the beautifully restored Trajan’s Nymphaeum. Piles of marble pieces are scattered everywhere, apparently still awaiting sorting. Back to the hotel, and tomorrow, home again.
